Step 1: Park your Harley on a level surface and turn off the engine. Place the motorcycle on its side stand if it has one. If not, you can use a block of wood to support the bike. Step 2: Locate the motor mounts. There are two mounts, one on each side of the engine. They will be attached to the frame with bolts. An engine mount that has gone bad will begin to exhibit a clunking sound. This sound will be most noticeable when putting your Traverse in and out of gear, when the engine shifts, as well as when you accelerate or de-accelerate abruptly. This clunking comes from the mount being worn and having enough play to move when the force suddenly changes. The mounts should be installed so that they are centered on the engine stringers and parallel to the centerline. If the engine, when properly aligned, is not parallel to the engine stringers, then the mounts must be shimmed to create the proper angle. They also should be perpendicular to the engine brackets. Were you having problems after replacing the front motor mount. If so check the air flow assembly from the air filter to the center of engine. If it has any holes or small rips it should be replaced. Look very closely at the rounded section while (moving it!) around. Vibration and a clunking sound are the two most noticeable symptoms when driving the vehicle. There are plenty of visible signs as well. Engine mounts connect the engine to the frame of the Tacoma. They also provide vibration dampening. It is essential to the operation of the vehicle that they are working properly. On 2005 camry v6, the front near radiator use vacuum engine mount, aftermarket search from rockauto for front mount where all hydraulic without vacuum and gave me no choice to buy oem. Make sure the person who did the installation the bolts and nuts for trans mount and passenger mount is tight from the lower control arm, same as the front near A 150ml squeeze tube of Sikaflex is sufficient to do both the engine mount and the 2 lower control arm bushings. It is possible to do the engine mount insitu. I just found it easier to remove the engine mount and then use the rubber covers to force/sqeeze the Sikaflex into the open spaces of the bushing. On a Dyna, completely different deal. Their engine is TOTALLY mounted in rubber, with the swing arm through the trans case, not supported by the frame. If the front mount wears (Oil change drippings) the engine starts to sit backwards. If you can't get your hand between the battery box on the right and the rear pipe, it's mount time. There are a lot of variables to consider when answering such a question. If the rest of the car Is in good shape in and out, the engine is solid (doesn't burn oil) then I say it's worth to repair it even if it is high mileage. The mileage is not very high, your mounts should be okay. Here's an example. BV56YV.

how to check engine mounts